Victuality = Victuals + Vitality! Dedicated to the glories of international food: original and tested recipes for cooking, baking, and mixed drinks, combined with philosophical musings on fooling around with comestibles.
Tuesday, 21 May 2013
Cheater's Cassoulet
This is my simple, though admittedly time-consuming, version of a French country classic. My French brother-in-law, who grew up in the countryside, laughed when I asked him about the definitive version of cassoulet. I had read so many recipes requiring (to me) exotic ingredients such as smoked duck or goose. He told me that cassoulet means about the same as what an American means by casserole. Every region and even every family in a region has its own "definitive" recipe. The only constants are sausage, some kind of poultry, bacon and white beans in tomato sauce, though the duck or goose fat (if you can get it) really does make a difference to the richness of the flavor of the final product; so do use it if you possibly can. (If you're a low-fat advocate, just go away; you shouldn't be looking at this recipe anyway. 2 TBS of goose grease will not kill the 4-6 people this recipe feeds!!) This is a great way to recycle leftovers in such a way that all will clamor for more.
Ingredients:
2 TBS rendered duck, goose, chicken or bacon fat, or ghee (clarified butter)
6 chicken wings, OR 3 legs, OR 3 thighs, skin on (not breast meat)
1 smoked sausage of any kind (Kielbasa, cured Bratwurst), sliced 1/2" thick
2 slices bacon, sliced crosswise OR 2 TBS chopped pancetta
1 cup leftover cooked lamb, beef, pork or in a pinch even ham, in chunks
1 large or 2 small onions, chopped coarsely
2 cloves pressed (or finely chopped) garlic
1 rib celery, finely chopped
1 medium carrot, peeled and chopped
Generous 1/2 cup red wine
1 15-oz. can chopped tomatoes in juice
2 15-oz. cans white beans (do not drain liquid) --OR 1 can plain white beans and 1 can beans in tomato sauce
1/2 Knorr beef bouillon cube
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs fresh rosemary (if you have it)
Several grinds fresh black pepper
1 tsp. dried Herbes de Provence mixture OR
a goodly pinch each of dried rosemary, savory, and thyme
(Don't add salt --believe me, you will not need it!)
How to make it:
Preheat oven to 450°F/220°C.
Heat fat in a skillet over medium-high heat.
Brown chicken in it, turning to brown evenly, about 5-6 minutes (there is no need for meat to cook through, just get the skin browned).
Remove chicken with a slotted spoon to a deep oven-proof casserole.
In the remaining fat, sauté bacon or pancetta until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and add to chicken, along with the chunks of leftover meat.
Turn the heat down to medium. Now sauté chopped onion, carrot and celery for about 5 minutes, or until onions are transparent but not browned.
Add garlic and cook another minute.
Pour in red wine and stir well.
Add tomatoes, beans, and seasonings. Heat, stirring, until mixture just comes to a boil.
Pour it all over the meat in the casserole, and stir to combine.
Place casserole in hot oven. Close the door and turn the heat down to 325°F/160°C.
Bake, uncovered, for an hour. Stir and return to oven.
Bake another hour; stir, and return to oven. If it seems a bit dry, you may stir in up to 1/2 cup water.
(If you wish to top the cassoulet with buttered crumbs-- this is a common variation, but I find it overkill-- you may add them now.)
Bake one more hour. Remove from oven and allow to settle for 15 minutes before serving.
A green salad and crusty bread are great with this. It's even better the next day, warmed up, in the unlikely event some is left over.
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